My Experience of Catholic France (At Least What’s Left of It)

Friends, many of us are now aware of the Last Supper controversy at the opening ceremony of the Paris Olympic Games. Like many of the faithful and clergy, I am disappointed by the blatant mockery of the most cherished sacrament of our church: the Eucharist. This article is not to denounce the controversy, as many others have done already. Rather, I would like to discuss my recent trip to Paris, and my impressions of the Catholic church there. Perhaps it may inspire you in your prayers for France at this time. It may even encourage you to visit France, a country often referred to as the eldest daughter of the Church.

I had the opportunity to visit Paris for the weekend while studying in Rome last spring semester. The first church I visited there was the Basilica of the Sacred Heart (Sacré-Cœur) on Montmartre Hill. This magnificent 19th-century church is of the Romano-Byzantine style of architecture, with three main domes pointing up to the Parisian sky. Pilgrims and tourists can climb up to the church’s central dome (280 steps) to get a stunning panoramic view of Paris. Inside, its mosaics and stained glass windows vividly depict the history of the Sacred Heart Devotion in France. However, for Catholics, the heart of this basilica is its Perpetual Adoration of the Blessed Sacrament, offered continuously there since 1885. There, day and night, in peacetime and in war, people adore our Eucharistic Lord present in an elevated monstrance. One would hope that the recent events at the Olympic games have encouraged Catholics to adore our Lord there with greater fervor.

From there, I visited the Church of the Holy Trinity (Église de la Sainte-Trinité), another 19th-century church built in the Neo-Renaissance style. I entered it through the side entrance as the facade was being renovated. The church's nave was very spacious, with ornate chandeliers on each side providing a warm and inviting atmosphere. Above the high altar, which had on it an empty monstrance, is an arch with a painting of the Holy Trinity. Below it was the Latin inscription "GLORIA PATRI ET FILIO ET SPIRITUI SANCTO" (Glory be to the Father and to the Son and to the Holy Spirit). The side chapels are dedicated to notable French saints, including Saint Vincent de Paul, Saint Denis (depicted carrying his head), and Saint Genevieve. As I was about to leave the church, a priest came to put the Eucharist in the empty monstrance for adoration. It was as if the Lord was reminding me of his loving presence, having just left adoration at Sacré-Cœur an hour earlier.

I also visited Sainte-Chapelle, a 12th-century Gothic chapel renowned around the world for its stunning stained glass windows. Although saddened that it was no longer a functioning chapel, I could not help but feel awe and reverence entering there, calling to mind Psalm 118:23: “By the LORD has this been done; it is wonderful in our eyes.” The scenes depicted in the stained glass windows tell the story of salvation history, from the Creation to Christ’s Resurrection. This chapel, built by the saintly King Louis IX, originally housed the relics of the Passion. Devotion to the relics of the Passion has always been a hallmark of French Catholic life. In a country that has become increasingly hostile to Catholicism, Sainte-Chapelle stands as a testament to the faith that has built and sustained much of Western Europe.

Other churches I visited in Paris were La Madeleine, Saint-Sulpice, Saint-Pierre (Beauvais), and of course, the Notre Dame Cathedral, currently under restoration. The museums I visited there featured paintings that recount the history of the evolving and at times difficult relationship between Catholics and France. I even attended a Solemn High Latin Mass at the Church of Saint-Eugène-Sainte-Cécile, celebrating the Solemnity of Saint Joan of Arc, Patroness of France.

Friends, despite many challenges and persecutions, the Catholic faith endures in France! There are still souls there who are dedicated to reestablishing Christian culture in a society that too often forgets its roots. The richness of France’s Catholic culture is evident from its many monuments, devotions, and churches – testaments to her unique place in the history of Christendom. Many of us were hurt by the recent events at the Paris Olympic Games. But let us not lose heart while praying for the eldest daughter of the church, because she still has so much to teach us about perseverance in the faith to the end.